
Difficult
to control weeds
Not all weeds are the same, many are more persistent and
difficult to control than others. Repeated applications
or a change in cultural practices may be necessary to
help control these weeds. Some examples are: Veronica
and corn speedwell, wild violet or creeping charlie.
Grubs
The larval stage of the European Chaffer Beetle,
the white grub, feeds on the roots of the turf. This damage
will not recover and seeding is necessary for repair.
Animals such as squirrels, skunks racoons and crows will
dig for grubs in search of food. The best protection against
infestation is to mow high, water deep and receive a Merit
grub control application late June – early July.
Leatherjackets
The larval stage of the European Crane Fly, leatherjackets
can be devastating to turf in high populations. Most
damage occurs in the fall, and over winter. Therefore,
the best time to treat for leather jackets is in the
fall.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass, an annual plant, germinates at the start
of the warm season, and is usually first spotted near
driveways and curbs, or any other “hot spots”
throughout the lawn. It seeds itself and can spread
easily to any bare or thin areas of the lawn. At the
end of the season, crabgrass will turn a purple/black
colour as it starts to die off in the cooler weather,
dropping seeds and creating a bigger problem in the
next season. Treatment should be done as the plant is
growing mid- late summer.
Uncontrollable
grasses
Grassy type weeds such as Poa Annua (Annual
Bluegrass) Tall Fescue and a variety of others are not
controllable with applications of broadleaf weed control,
or crabgrass control. Pulling these plants by hand and
reseeding the area is the best control for these weeds.
Many of these grassy weeds will seed themselves and
spread throughout the lawn. Quick action to remove them
and fill in the thinned areas will only benefit your
lawn.
Fungus/disease
Most disease and fungus problems that occur in the lawn
can be controlled organically or with an alteration
in cultural practices. Most common problems are not
fatal to turfgrass in the Lower Mainland. The two most
common fungus you will see in your yard are “Turf
rust” and orange coloured, powdery substance coating
the grass blades, if heavy it can leave a residue on
your shoes when you mow the lawn, and “Red Thread”.
To help prevent both of these problems from spreading
on your lawn, wash your mower thoroughly after each
cut, water early in the day and keep the lawn on a well
balanced fertilizer program.
Turf
mushrooms
Although not harmful to your lawn, mushrooms are a cosmetic
problem. Mushrooms feed on decaying organic material
in the soil. Heavy thatch, buried construction debris
or rotting tree roots can be the cause of mushrooms.
They are most often visible during wet periods, and
will usually disappear when the weather turns dry. Yearly
aeration will help reduce thatch and reduce soil compaction,
to allow water to flow through the soil more freely.
Although these are not curative solutions for mushrooms,
they can help reduce mushrooms from entering the lawn.
Moss
Probably the most common turf problem in the Lower Mainland,
moss is a sure sign that something is not right with
the environmental conditions your lawn is growing in.
Poor drainage, compacted soils, low fertility, poor
air circulation and mowing too short all encourage moss
to enter the lawn, and make it easier for the moss to
take over. Changing your cultural practices and keeping
the lawn on a proper fertilizer program will greatly
reduce the amount of moss your lawn acquires from year
to year.
| Mowing tips |
| • |
Always mow your lawn with a sharp
mower blade. You should sharpen the mower blades
three times a year – a good way to remember
this: plan to sharpen around Victoria Day, Canada
Day and Labour Day – this schedule will ensure
the blades are sharp and help create stronger turf. |
| • |
Always mow at the proper height for your grass
type. Mowing too short will promote weeds, crabgrass
and drought to enter the lawn. |
| • |
Each time you mow alternate the direction of your
cut. This will help create a denser turf and strengthen
its resistance to disease and weed problems. |
| • |
Leave the clippings on the lawn to “recycle”
the nutrients, only remove if clippings are thick
and heavy. |
| Watering tips |
| • |
Water to a depth of 1 – 1 1/2“
per week, during really hot periods extra watering
may be necessary, particularly near sidewalks, driveways,
curbs, on slopes and near drip lines of trees or
large shrubs. |
| • |
Water early in the day. Night time watering promotes
disease and fungus. Do not water mid day to prevent
evaporation. If watering late afternoon, allow enough
time for the lawn to dry before the sun sets in
the evening. |
| • |
Do not over water your lawn, this can also cause
disease to enter the lawn. |
| • |
You can purchase timers that will turn your lawn
sprinklers on and off for you, so you can still
sleep while your lawn is being watered. If this,
or early watering is not an option for you, and
evening is the only time you are able to provide
irrigation for your lawn, just remember: ANY TIME,
IS BETTER THAN NOT AT ALL. |
|