Difficult to control weeds
Not all weeds are the same, many are more persistent and difficult to control than others. Repeated applications or a change in cultural practices may be necessary to help control these weeds. Some examples are: Veronica and corn speedwell, wild violet or creeping charlie.




Grubs
The larval stage of the European Chaffer Beetle, the white grub, feeds on the roots of the turf. This damage will not recover and seeding is necessary for repair. Animals such as squirrels, skunks racoons and crows will dig for grubs in search of food. The best protection against infestation is to mow high, water deep and receive a Merit grub control application late June – early July.



Leatherjackets

The larval stage of the European Crane Fly, leatherjackets can be devastating to turf in high populations. Most damage occurs in the fall, and over winter. Therefore, the best time to treat for leather jackets is in the fall.





Crabgrass

Crabgrass, an annual plant, germinates at the start of the warm season, and is usually first spotted near driveways and curbs, or any other “hot spots” throughout the lawn. It seeds itself and can spread easily to any bare or thin areas of the lawn. At the end of the season, crabgrass will turn a purple/black colour as it starts to die off in the cooler weather, dropping seeds and creating a bigger problem in the next season. Treatment should be done as the plant is growing mid- late summer.

Uncontrollable grasses
Grassy type weeds such as Poa Annua (Annual Bluegrass) Tall Fescue and a variety of others are not controllable with applications of broadleaf weed control, or crabgrass control. Pulling these plants by hand and reseeding the area is the best control for these weeds. Many of these grassy weeds will seed themselves and spread throughout the lawn. Quick action to remove them and fill in the thinned areas will only benefit your lawn.


Fungus/disease

Most disease and fungus problems that occur in the lawn can be controlled organically or with an alteration in cultural practices. Most common problems are not fatal to turfgrass in the Lower Mainland. The two most common fungus you will see in your yard are “Turf rust” and orange coloured, powdery substance coating the grass blades, if heavy it can leave a residue on your shoes when you mow the lawn, and “Red Thread”. To help prevent both of these problems from spreading on your lawn, wash your mower thoroughly after each cut, water early in the day and keep the lawn on a well balanced fertilizer program.

Turf mushrooms
Although not harmful to your lawn, mushrooms are a cosmetic problem. Mushrooms feed on decaying organic material in the soil. Heavy thatch, buried construction debris or rotting tree roots can be the cause of mushrooms. They are most often visible during wet periods, and will usually disappear when the weather turns dry. Yearly aeration will help reduce thatch and reduce soil compaction, to allow water to flow through the soil more freely. Although these are not curative solutions for mushrooms, they can help reduce mushrooms from entering the lawn.

Moss
Probably the most common turf problem in the Lower Mainland, moss is a sure sign that something is not right with the environmental conditions your lawn is growing in. Poor drainage, compacted soils, low fertility, poor air circulation and mowing too short all encourage moss to enter the lawn, and make it easier for the moss to take over. Changing your cultural practices and keeping the lawn on a proper fertilizer program will greatly reduce the amount of moss your lawn acquires from year to year.

Mowing tips
Always mow your lawn with a sharp mower blade. You should sharpen the mower blades three times a year – a good way to remember this: plan to sharpen around Victoria Day, Canada Day and Labour Day – this schedule will ensure the blades are sharp and help create stronger turf.
Always mow at the proper height for your grass type. Mowing too short will promote weeds, crabgrass and drought to enter the lawn.
Each time you mow alternate the direction of your cut. This will help create a denser turf and strengthen its resistance to disease and weed problems.
Leave the clippings on the lawn to “recycle” the nutrients, only remove if clippings are thick and heavy.

Watering tips
Water to a depth of 1 – 1 1/2“ per week, during really hot periods extra watering may be necessary, particularly near sidewalks, driveways, curbs, on slopes and near drip lines of trees or large shrubs.
Water early in the day. Night time watering promotes disease and fungus. Do not water mid day to prevent evaporation. If watering late afternoon, allow enough time for the lawn to dry before the sun sets in the evening.
Do not over water your lawn, this can also cause disease to enter the lawn.
You can purchase timers that will turn your lawn sprinklers on and off for you, so you can still sleep while your lawn is being watered. If this, or early watering is not an option for you, and evening is the only time you are able to provide irrigation for your lawn, just remember: ANY TIME, IS BETTER THAN NOT AT ALL.
    
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